DEAR S.J.: I am doing my very best not to SCREAM at you. I am going to very calmly explain that this plant is to Texas what kudzu is to the Southern States. You have heard of kudzu? Like kudzu this plant is crowding out native plants, ruining habitats, endangering wildlife, threatening water supplies for communities, damaging equipment...need I go on? It quickly covers the surface of every body of water it enters.

It is a native of Brazil, but spread just by folks doing what you did, bringing it into nonnative environments. We aren't the only ones. It's doing far more harm in Africa than it is here.

The seed can be spread by birds and wind as well as by water and root growth, so just keeping it in your little garden won't work. One of the biggest mysteries to me is how we gardeners insist on seeing our little gardens as universes unto themselves and refuse to see how we impact the greater environment around us.

I'm sorry to be ugly about this. But ignorance is the reason this plant is doing so much damage. Burn the thing, the whole thing. Now!

DEAR BRENDA: What do you think of the plant called Thyrallis? It is a yellow-blooming shrub. I Google-searched it and it seems like it might be okay for this area. The only thing is that I am looking for something that will be mostly in the shade and I am afraid this won't bloom. How about hostas? I have always stayed away from them because of the snail/slug problem. A.J.

Dear AJ: My thryallis is in partial shade and blooms beautifully. Actually, it just gets a little morning sun. Not only that, our four pointers stomped it into the ground and I thought it was dead for sure. There was not a leaf left on it. Durn if that thing isn't coming back out strong.

They also take full sun, but by all means, if the only place you have to put it is in shade, give it a try. I love it. I noticed a bank on San Felipe is using it in planter boxes in full hot sun and it is gorgeous. The big thing

is: don't overwater. These are drought tolerant plants which means they need to be planted high so their roots don't stay wet in our rainy periods.

Re: hostas, I'm not sure what varieties I have, but they are beautiful too right now. They were in deep shade for years and years and did really well.

Then we lost a tree and now they're in full hot sun. I can't see any difference in their blooming. I don't know why I don't have a slug/snail problem. But I don't. I think maybe it's a number of factors:

Also I don't water them enough. Maybe it's too dry there for slugs and snails!

The only place I have snail problems is in my house! They come in my sliding glass door at night and leave silvery trails on the carpet.

DEAR BRENDA: I have recently (1 month ago) planted 6 tibochinas at our ranch near San Antonio. It is an alkaline soil and the climate is hot and dry. I have been watering the plants often but the leaves have all turned wilty with brown edges curling upwards. The flowers have fallen off and no more are present. Could you please advise what I need to do to save them. I have not given them any Miracle Grow or anything for that matter. I was waiting for them to get over their transplanting shock but they have gotten worse. J.

DEAR J. These tropical trees have done very well here along the Gulf Coast in recent years because of our mild winters. In a normal winter here (a week of very cold freezing weather), I suspect they'd all die. But they do like our humid, very poorly draining soil with very heavy spring and fall rains which is a lot like their native Brazil. They actually prefer a slightly acidic soil, so here the recommendation is to use a good pine needle/oak leaf and/or pine bark mulch to counter our normally alkaline soil.

So I can see why they might object to the climate around San Antonio.

However, you say they've only been planted about a month? Trees traditionally set strong root systems before they do anything above ground. I wouldn't panic for at least a full year.

You should have removed all the flowers and cut the stalks back about 1/3 when you planted. Flowering, and even supporting existing buds, takes a lot of plant strength away from root formation. That should be your first focus.

Cut off all buds and pinch back the branches just slightly. You don't want to prune too much because that will force new topgrowth and you don't want that right now.

You may be overwatering as well. Curled wilted leaves are a sign of overwatering (and underwatering). Are they well mulched? That could be more important than anything in that area.

Leave off the Miracle Gro and fertilizers right now. Again, these just trigger topgrowth. If you feel you must try something, get some SuperThrive at the nursery and water that in. It's not a fertilizer, just a great root stimulator, and don't use more than recommended. More is not better.

Then be patient. If they work, they'll be well worth it.

I'm stretching it a bit to recommend planting advice for that area, which is so different from our little subtropical pocket here in Houston. A great resource for you would be the Texas A&M website

Hope this helps

DEAR BRENDA: I have some plant that are growing way larger than they were supposed to. Why don't they come up with something you can put on a plant tomake it stop growing so large? M.L.

DEAR M.L.: Growers use manipulative growth hormones all the time to . In Amsterdam we saw oleanders and hibiscus only one foot high covered with regular size blooms. All the result of growth manipulation to keep plants smaller.

But this is done only to 1. make shipping easier and 2. entice us to buy the plant. We want plants covered with blooms, but nurseries can't manage full size plants.

I did have to smile at your question. Most of the queries I get want to know how to make plants grow, not to make them stop growing.

One reason we're all having a problem with overgrowth is global warming ...

IF that's what's responsible for our very warm winters here along the Gulf Coast. Plants that normally grow for 10 months out of the year (our usual growing

season) are now growing 12 months a year with no let-up and no dieback. Even if it's cold to us outside, the ground hasn't gotten cold enough to stop root growth in many years. Only the most tropical of plants probably even notice winter is here. Mildly tropical plants are now perennials for us.

You have two choices:

1. Remove those plants and get something for that space that is genetically programmed to grow smaller.

2. Prune off unwanted growth.

It's really not a good idea to do any serious pruning now, especially if you plant to leave on vacation. Pruning a plant during its growing season triggers more growth. True the growth will be internal, that is, the plant will send out more side branches making for a fuller, prettier plant. But this new growth will also require more water.

Having said that, tho, I just got through whacking my porterweed in half.

It's so huge I can't stand it.

My theory is that you should do what you want to do in the garden when the spirit moves. In my case, the spirit may never move again. If the plants can't take it, then they don't belong in my garden!

DEAR BRENDA: I hate this time of year. Nothing looks good in the garden.  What do you do in your garden in the summer to keep it looking good? I'm in uptown Houston. A.L.

DEAR A.L.: Your questions frustrates me almost as much as S. J.'s did. We have so many beautiful plants that can be totally ignored in our gardens in the summertime. We insist onignoring these flowers and insist on planting all kinds of stuff that is totally inappropriate for Houston summers. Then we complain when everything dies.

Okay, here's what's blooming in my yard right now. I have watered maybe twice since the first of May. We've been out of town off and on, so they are on their own. If they die with this kind of treatment, they don't belong in my garden. I'm writing this on June 16: Father's Day!

In the front yard now, in bloom are a pink oleander, a fire engine-red Knockout rose, blue and white plumbago, yellow and orange bulbine, a deep red Martha Gonzales rose, the aforementioned coral porterweed, a pink Nearly Wild rose, a white Texas swamp lily (crinum), a white althaea, a pink LaMarne rose and, to my utter amazment, the mock orange (Philadelphus or English dogwood). It should have stopped blooming long ago. The cashmere bouquet is also blooming, but I don't recommend this plant unless you've got a huge area where an invasive plant would be welcome. Oh, and some daylilies and Mexican zinnias and Mexican petunias (ruellia).

In the back and side yard, there are flowers on the coral fountain plant (a russellia), also Red Rocket russellia, yellow esperanza (Tecoma stans or yellow bells), pentas, lots of cosmos I planted back in the spring, barlaria, the last strands of cape jasmine (the only kind of gardenia I can get to grow in my swampy, slightly alkaline soil), Katy Road Pink rose, some white rose (all the aforementioned roses are antiques), hostas, cestrum, lanceleaf coneflowers, swamp sunflowers, four o'clocks, shell ginger, turk's cap, crape myrtles (oh, and there are some weeping crepe blooming in front too), hymenocallis, purple oxalis, pomgranate, shrimps, purple passionvine, begonias, a spectacular rangoon creeper. I've probably forgotten some, but don't tell me that nothing will bloom in your garden in the summer. All of these except for the cape jasmine will go through to December if I'm lucky. And pretty soon the firespike will be beautiful with it's fire engine red spikes. And it's a shade lover too!

And in July, the lion's tail and tickseed sunflowers will burst into bloom.

Now, lest you imagine that my yard is solid color, don't. I have maybe one of each of these plants, except for the firespike and tickseed and plumbago. I have lots of those. So these are just spots of color all over. Still, they are in bloom and it is blasting hot and I haven't watered much at all.

But then, maybe that's one reason they do keep going. I haven't pampered them. I am not big on watering systems. I don't have one. When something looks really wilted, I may water it. But I don't water things that aren't wilted.

Most of these plants are very drought tolerant, which means overwatering will stop them from blooming and may even kill them. You really do need to get to know your plants!

If some of these plants aren't familiar to you, try this:

Type in the name of the plant.

If you want to see more photos, click on image before you type in the name.

But, before you take any growing or planting advice off the internet, look to see where it's from. A full sun plant in Connecticut may need afternoon shade here. If it says “well-drained,” it mean put it in a well-raised bed here, perhaps a foot off the ground.

EMAIL GARDENING QUESTIONS TO BRENDA AT: brenda@guidrynews.com 

***

GREATER HOUSTON/GALVESTON/BEAUMONT GARDENING CALENDAR

If your group has an event that is not listed, it's because it was not sent to me in time. Send gardening event notices to Brenda at brenda@guidrynews.com. Gardening event notices must be submitted by the 20th of the preceding month. Events are printed almost exactly as submitted.

Saturday-Sunday, June 25-26: Tropical Treasures Plants Sale and Seminar, “Exotic World of Gingers” by Beth Galiano, 2 p.m. June 25, “Mounting Ferns” by Michael Lowery, 2 p.m. June 26; sale 10 a.m.-4 p.m. both days, Nessler Civic Center, 2010 5th Avenue North in Texas City; 713-864-9717; free. .

Friday-Saturday (July 1-2): Jerrys Jungle Gardens will celebrate Independence Day with Open Gardens to the public FREE, Guided tours of the rare and exotic plant collections. Plants and amenities will be for sale.712 Hill Rd., 281

272 8612, www.jerrysjungle.com.   

Sunday, July 24: Hibiscus Show and Sale, 1-4 p.m., Bellaire Community Center,

Thursday, July 28, 2005: "Gingers," by Linda Gay of the Mercer Arboretum.

7:15 pm, Bud O'Shieles Community Center, 1330 Band Road in Rosenberg, free. Ft.

Wednesday Aug. 3: “Native Habitats in Your Backyard” by Marya Fowler, 7-9 p.m., Bear Creek Park Community Center, 3055 Bear Creek Drive, Room B.; free.

Friday-Saturday, Aug. 5-6: Summer Orchid Workshop 2005, Holiday Inn Select, Kirby Drive at Southwest Freeway; $48. August 6 Plant sale only, noon-5 p.m.

Friday (Aug. 12): Registration deadline for the Saturday August 13 from 8:30am to 3pm; Basics of Residential Horticulture Part 2; Continuing the introduction to the science of gardening with seasona appropriate information. This includes composting, lawn dieseases and care, Bulbs, Fall Vegetable gardening, and recommended plants for the Houston area, tree care and pruning. Lunch included.Bear Creek Extension at 3033 Bear Creek Dr. $50.00

August 16: "A Taste of the Tropics: Flowers, Form and Fragrance" by Linda Gay, Director of Mercer Arboretum at 6:30 pm., Harris County Extension office,

OCT. 6-7-8, 2005 63rd Bulb and Plant Mart will be October 6, 7, and 8, 2005 at Westminster United Methodist Church 5801 Bering at San Felipe.

Nov. 6: Holiday Decorations for Mantel and Wreaths presented by Hollie

Fairchild, 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon, Burgess Recreation Center, 4200 Kalwick in Deer Park, Cost $25.00 at the door. Deer Park Petal Pushers Garden Club event, 281-542-9731.

Friday, Nov. 18, and Saturday Nov. 19: 9am to 11:30 and 1pm to 3:30pm; Floral Design for the Holidays; Class instruction and hands-on assistance. Flowers and containers provided for Thanksgiving arrangement. Dr. Carol Brouwer and Michael T. Morrison will teach these two sessions. One in the morning and then another session in the afternoon. Refreshments. Bear Creek Extension Auditorium $50.00. 281-855-5600.

Friday, Dec. 9: Registration deadline for the Saturday December 10 9am-11:30, and 1:00pm to 3:30pm Either morning or afternoon session for hands-on training on floral designs for the holiday season. Flowers and containers provided for Christmas. Refreshments served. Michael T. Morrison and Dr. Carol Brouwer will teach the sessions. Bear Creek Extension Auditorium. $50.00.  281-855-5600

April 4, 2006: A Garden Club of America Small Flower Show. Presented by the

18 Clubs of The GArden Club of America Zone IX (Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, & Texas), The Omni Hotel, Four Riverway in Houston.

713-871-8181